Mochi tsuki もちつき

A couple of days before new year, Bridget, Liz and I attended the local Mochi Tsuki at a small temple in the Kurodani temple precinct. Mochi is made by pounding steamed glutinous rice into a , pliable chewy dough which is then shaped into rounds. The sake laced occasion is a fun, bonding ritual for local communities. And as you will see, even the kids get involved - well not with the sake bit....  

As tradition, mochi are prepared for the New Year - for a variety of reasons - mainly as an addition to a stewy soup called Ozoni which is eaten on New Year's Day (although wonderfully warming and satisfying on any chilly day  - and there are many regional varieties) and for placing in tokonoma ( spiritual alters) as a New Year's offering (in that case there is usually one large round mochi topped with a slightly smaller version). 

At this particular event we foreigners were welcomed with open arms, and a little curiosity. We all took along a dish or something to add to the continually changing "buffet" and were fed all sorts of snacks, sushi, salads, even italian from a local restaurant when the chef turned up - and plied with some very fine sake ...

Okaasan setting the pace with her two kids - her arms like a giant piano metronome!

"No, no, that's not how its done - you watch me!!!"

Caught with her hand in the popcorn bucket!

Bridget and Liz giving it a bash!

Shaping the mochi which are lightly dried out before grilling after which they puff up to become slightly crisp on the outside and molten in the centre. 

Its a little messy at times....

Enjoying the nibbles... mochi with a choice of soy for drizzling over or a black sugar syrup and kinako ( roasted soy bean powder) 

Master steamer! You may note some of the mochi above are yellow - they are coloured so with the plant below. There were also green - coloured with yomogi ( mugwort leaves) and pink - coloured with small dried ebi or prawns. 

Inside one of the temple rooms these dolls represented the grandmother and grandfather of the residing monk's family.  I am a little curious as to why the grandfather was left peeking out from behind the vase.... perhaps it was just my camera angle...

But it did seem as though the grandmother had a strong presence...

The day really was a hoot - I felt most privileged to be involved. And when the day became a little cooler some retired from the deck to the inner sanctum  ...

That was when it was time for us to go - that and me being patted on the bum by an amorous, sake-soaked Osaakan... And what an exit - check out the afternoon glow

Kyoto tower in the background

A clearly religious experience....

Kyurious Kyoto

Apologies! This post has now been moved to ZENBU TOURS - you'll find it HERE.

New Year's Eve Kyoto 2011

New year's eve is always special in Kyoto - reflective,  connected and often inspiring. Instilling a sense of positivity in moving forward into the oncoming year. 

After customarily cleaning our homes from top to bottom - ok, so mine got the once over, probably not as detailed as it might have been....   we started with an early dinner at Guilo Guilo (or Giro Giro as it is called by the locals) with close friends before a wander around a glowing Gion (geisha district) on route to Yasaka Jinja. We set  alight a small rope in the sacred temple flames  - with which the first fire of the year at home should be lit.  Be sure to swing that rope all the way home from the shrine to keep it burning then spark up the fire pit...  OK so if you don't happen to live in a VERY traditional Japanese home its a little more symbolic these days than anything else  -  the stove or a candle will do! 

We then stopped for a warming cuppa at Mark's place before strolling on to Buddhist temple Honen-in to line up and ring the giant brass bell.  As is custom large bells across Japan are rung 108 times with a large wooden gong on a swinging rope contraption ( think tree trunk) in order to help quell the 108 earthly sins according to Buddhism... its good to think of your "word" for the year while you do this. The atmosphere is spiritually dense and quiet apart from the chanting like countdown by the monks ( I was number 77 - hope its lucky!) and the  deep, vibrational, booming gongs. We were handed a small packet of gorgeous incense as we let go of the rope - just in time for midnight where the non Japanese among us hugged and kissed  - and then were reprimanded by one local as it "really isn't the done thing"  - ah well, blame it on our foreign ignorance I guess... but this is part of our culture so I guess we might be forgiven by onlookers...?? Gomenasai !

Afterwards we walked along the dimly lit philosopher's path to a small, relatively unknown shrine for hatsumode (first shrine visit of the year!). Situated in a rather secluded spot it was very quiet and we were able to sit around a large fire pit with a couple of locals, while we sipped just one symbolic cup of sake and shared ghost stories before heading home around 2am...

Thank you Tadget, Mark, Justin and Gerardo for ringing in 2012 with me. xx

Here's a peak into a truly special (and funny!) evening...

The wonderful new year's fare of Giro Giro...

It was fairly quiet in Gion - not quite what foreigners might expect on NYE - we ran into some tourists wondering where the "action" was.... of course it was all happening at Yasaka Jinja as they prepared for the post midnight hatsumode.... of course there's no harm in starting early right??

Oden, udon, soba...

Sweet, thick gruel-like amaze - a low alcohol sake consumed as part of the celebration - its so tame even kids drink the stuff... its quite delicious too! and importantly keeps your hands warm on a cold night!

 

Then onto the temple....

Then the shrine for Hatsumode...

A little too cosy by the fire... a peaceful nap-time for some...