Tempura Matsu

Hello, we are in the process of moving all Japan related content over to the ZENBU TOURS site and this page has already been transferred. You will find the page link HERE. 

Thanks for your patience. Cheers, Jane 

Bentley Restaurant and Bar

A few years back now I had the pleasure of acquiring and working on the Bentley Restaurant and Bar Cookbook for Murdoch books - a sexy beast of a thing which showcases a selection of Brent Savage's clever and visually impactful cuisine and provides the reader with just a sliver of business partner and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt's wealth of boozey knowledge.  Shot by the multitalented Luke Burgess before he jumped behind the stoves of Tasmania's fabulous Garagistes. 

The famous Cauliflower Custard with mushroom and black garlic. 

But that was back before they moved the Bentley from Suzza Hills (situated in the old Bentley Bar  - a dangerous place I'd frequented in my youth after dance parties - but that's not a story for now...)  to a new, spacious and more glamorous venue in the city on the corner of Pitt and Hunter Streets  -  and, by the way, also opened up another couple of popular eateries - Yellow and Monopole - neither of which I have made it to yet but I keep hearing amazing things about licorice bread for breakfast so I guess I'd best be getting myself across the bridge again sometime soon.   Too much time in Japan.

I'd been very keen to visit the new Bentley and recently shared lunch there with a friend - in doing so I was  finally able to catch up with the very clever Brent and Nick - and what a smile I had on my dial when I left - how great to see these guys doing so well.  They happen to be super lovely people so it makes it all the more cool.  Congratulations on your recent awards guys. 

Check out my lunch and drool.

A couple of bites to start us off with hints of Japan  - yuzu, wagyu, sesame - I was feeling right at home.

Sea urchin and Carrot left. Sugarsnaps, zucchini, asparagus, pine nut right.

Morton Bay Bugs, snapper and shellfish broth

Veal, celeriac, pumpernickel, pickled onion

So good. 

And don't I wish I'd had dessert......

Please have one for me when you go. And instagram me some dessert porn OK?

Beautiful fit out by the lovely Pascale Gomes-McNabb.

I'm sorry - but I had to put the cauliflower custard up again - how stunning is this??

PS - I  noted they are selling the Bentley book in the restaurant  - so when you eat there - make sure you take a peek!  Nudge nudge wink wink.... 

ORGANUM by Peter Gilmore.

                              Nature. Texture. Intensity. Purity.

A BEHIND THE SCENES PEEK INTO THE MAKING OF ORGANUM


Now that Organum is about to launch  - meaning there's been a gap in time large enough for me to step back and look at this incredible project from a distance - it has reminded me once again what a wonderful experience and great honour it has been, and will always be, to work with talented individuals who inspire and challenge you to grow as a creative.

Working closely with chef Peter Gilmore over the last 5 or 6 years on both Quay books has cemented our friendship and my respect for him as a person, a loving husband and father, and an abnormally creative talent. But Peter's curiosity for what makes things tick and subsequent ability to link seemingly random aspects of an idea - gently encouraging them into a harmoniously expressive state - is some kind of freaky.

And I don't mean to gush in a silly I have a 'foodie guru' kinda way - I'm all too aware of the current trend to deify certain food 'personalities'. My life, for good or bad, is fairly food centric and I've spent more than enough time around 'celebrity chef' wankery  - which is mostly encouraged by a few irresponsible media types rather than the chefs themselves (although there can be a knock on effect..).

Where I was leading to is this.. sure food is Pete's medium - but one has to wonder - if Peter's mind and intuition were invested in another field what other applications might his talents be suited to? I'm not implying world peace here... but then again - who knows.

Pete possesses a special kind of something which is hard to put a finger on. Mainly because he's quite simply a truly lovely, decent human being who doesn't live to toot his own trumpet. Who also just happens to have an ability to focus,  analyse and create in a way most people cannot. He has just enough ego to allow him to absorb some energy from his fans and utilise it in moving forward and enough gratitude to keep him humble, grounded, fair and realistic.

Peter knows what he wants and does whatever it takes to achieve it (as long a it is not to the detriment of others - he's just not that guy) but at the same time is open to adjusting his perspective should new information, concepts or possibilities come his way. He is constantly evolving his information bank and craft  -and not necessarily seeking it in the way the rest of us might, rather it seems to find him;  often while he meditates on a tiny dew drop balanced on a blossom of an edible flower growing in his impressive home garden - more accurately - a mini food farm. From which I have tasted the buds, leaves and grass of numerous exotic species and even nicked the odd yuzu and Japanese turnip for my own culinary purposes ! Yes, it is pretty fantastic.

It is without a doubt that I have edged my way a little deeper into Peter's world and mind through the process of making Organum.  I needed to make sure that together we got down on paper exactly what he wanted to say about every aspect of the contents in a way that the everyday punter would understand. Did we lock horns from time to time? Sure you could call it that I guess - but only in the  nicest possible, bendiest-plush-toy kinda way - as you can imagine of someone of Peter's character. We are both stubborn in our own special way, which is often required in our respective lines of work and related responsibilities - but without a doubt there was a healthy give and take from both sides. A good dose of respect and trust goes a long way in this kind of working relationship and we are fortunate to share that.

Regardless, you try being the person to tell one of the world's most highly acclaimed, respected and liked chefs 'no you can't say it like that because it doesn't really make sense....' or 'the marketing team isn't into that idea...' . Of course certain things make sense to Peter in a way that they might not to other people - that's what makes him so brilliant at what he does - but it was my job to make sure that 'the masses' could connect to his thoughts and feelings throughout the text. Peter communicates so sublimely through his cuisine that it sets off a complex range of emotions in most diners  - much like a unique artwork or piece of writing might - so there was no pressure at all....

One of the beautiful things about working together with a person you regard highly as a craft person and a human is that it allows you to have a little rethink about your own ideas from time to time and develop your abilities in ways you might never have anticipated. Throughout the process we certainly inspired each other to work in ways differently than we might have if we'd been working on our own. I'm grateful for the opportunity on so many levels.

But Peter isn't the only person I am honoured to have worked with on this title. Peter himself works with a great team at Quay, from his brilliant chefs and front of house lovelies to GM Kylie Ball and owners - The Fink Group. They have all made me feel like family for the entire time I've been lurking around Quay as we pulled these two books together. They know me well enough to know what I look like in the morning when I haven't had enough sleep and how I take my coffee. It often turns up before I've had a chance to think about it. (Thank you Robert x). They'll give me a good strong 'welcome back' hug when they haven't seen me for a week, they know when to feed me something they've been testing in the kitchen that I am gonna LOVE (Sam and Rob I'm looking at you - and the pastry crew!!)  and a plate will land in front of me when staff meal is up if I'm STILL hanging (sniffing) around. Occasionally I've been known to accept a glass of champers. Not complaining. The service team also developed a knack for politely-but-urgently tell me to piss off because they really need the green room to set up for a function.. But I would expect no less from the team at Quay. Culture is top down after all.

When it comes to a book project, especially one of this calibre, depth and size,  there are a whole lot of  behind the scenes people  involved at various stages of production who are rarely acknowledged.  Having worked for many years on both sides of the fence in book publishing I know it only too well. Thank you in particular to publisher Diana Hill,  for asking me to be involved in this project and trusting me to just get on with it.  I also want to give a shout out to the various editors on the book - especially the gorgeous Melody Lord who whipped things into shape at the 12th hour and to Christine Osmond for her work on the recipe testing - again, not a job for the average recipe tester ! And she ain't no average anything!

Before I took on this rather enormous and detailed gig I knew I'd be working with a treasured mate  -the enormously talented designer Reuben Crossman - who is just as stubborn and anal as me (but in an annoyingly brilliant way).  We've worked together on many projects including the first Quay book, Ben Shewry's Origin, most of Frank Camorra and co-writer Richard Cornish's MoVida books,  Matthew Evans' Real Food Companion and several of Pete Evans' books to name a few - and he's even designed a couple of my own titles too - Snowflakes and Schnapps and Zenbu Zen - finding food, culture and balance in Kyoto. He cannot help but go above and beyond and speaks a  different language to many people, even other creatives - that's why he works so damn well with Chef Gilmore.

Add to this heady cocktail of creative juices - one of the most technically superb photographers I have had the pleasure of working with (he also shot my books Snowflakes and Schnapps and made snowy villages appear in a north shore suburb of Sydney). There was no way on earth I could NOT work on this book. At the end of every recipe shoot day for Organum we'd gather around photographer Brett Stevens' screen at the resulting collection of images and literally go 'wow' - our lower jaws hanging slack. Actually there was sometimes a little bit of sweary excitement.

When working for an extended period (about 18 months) with a bunch of perfectionists with strong ideas you could be forgiven for thinking there might have been regular clashes - but honestly - if anything there was mild frustration from one party or another for mere minutes on the odd day and that's about it!. And what we collectively understand with much experience behind us all  - is that it is absolutely part of the process in a collaborative work and what it does do, alongside all the other queries and checks,  is help to produce a result much more layered and enigmatic than the sum of its parts - which is what Organum is all about... You'll have to read the book to find out more on that ;).

Even if you don't read it - you simply must fondle its textural cover, sniff its pages and wonder at the amazing imagery. But of course you should do that in the privacy of your own home.

Yesterday the Peter Gilmore App  for i-pad went LIVE - and it, like Organum, is a thing of beauty. Yet another layer of the Peter Gilmore and Organum story with stunning food porny video to boot!. A magnificent collaboration between Peter, Reuben, Brett and the exceptional Pollen Digital   

Chef Peter Gilmore Does Kyoto

"Spending time in Kyoto with Jane gave me a deeper insight into the Japanese culture. The Japanese emphasis on beautiful presentation and how they represent nature and the seasons have been an almost subconscious influence on me. Because of Jane's experience and network I had greater access to the culture."

Peter Gilmore

Executive Chef, Quay Restaurant, Sydney

Earlier this year I had the great honour of showing friend and Guru-Chef Peter Gilmore of  Quay around my second home - Kyoto.

Peter and I met about 5 or 6 years ago when I was the Food Publisher at Murdoch Books - I  managed to convince him and the Fink Group to allow us to publish Quay Restaurant's first book and recently we just finished making the second - which is one of the most stunning books I've ever seen (not at all biased)- and I haven't even held a hard copy yet! Keep an eye out for it later this year - no doubt I'll be giving it a shout out when it hits the shelves so stay tuned.

We've spent many, many hours working together on both books  - and in our breaks we often chatted about our mutual interest in Japan (well my obsession with Kyoto mostly!)  and her amazing culinary culture.  

Peter has travelled to Japan on several occasions and he so enjoyed his first Kyoto experience, some years back, that he thought he'd make the most of my being there in January (hosting my inaugural Kyoto Winter Cuisine and Culture Tours) and flew over for a closer look into the food culture with me by his side. 

We packed a lot into a few short days - eating the most stunning food of course, investigating local ingredients at food markets,  chatting with producers and chefs, admiring the most beautiful ceramics (purchases were made), sitting on temple decks contemplating life and Omotenashi (Japanese hospitality) with a wonderful monk,  meeting fascinating locals and keen food farmers and scanning artisan galleries for everything from handmade paper to knives. 

(pretty excited to spot a Maiko/trainee Geisha and a fully fledged Geisha below in red)

It wasn't enough time of course but it was just a little taste of what guests experience on my full length tours - Zenbu Ryori, Zenbu Zen and Zenbu Nigeru. Pete will just have to come back next winter!

As with all my tours we stayed at the Kyoto Hyatt Regency Hotel and were so very well looked after by General Manager Ken Yokoyama - who has to be THE most wonderful hotel manager in the universe - and also his excellent staff including Executive Chef Shaun Keenan who arranged for Peter to visit one of the restaurant's kitchens to examine the house miso and pickles! Thank you team Hyatt! Kyoto and I look forward to sharing more with you next time PG! 

Ps - see the strips of paper on the wall above -that's the menu. Between 6 of us - we ate the wall!

You can find more details on my 
Kyoto Cuisine and Culture Tours here 
or you can email me directly for e-brochures at janelawsonfood@bigpond.com.au

Please go here to read some tour testimonials.


Hope to see you in Kyoto soon ! Jane 

Ryoria Stephan Pantel

Kezako, one of my favourite high-end restaurants in Kyoto closed down last September. I would have been very sad had the chef, the lovely Stephan Pantel, not informed me of the fact he would be opening his own place this year. He wasn't open in time for me to visit in February but opened shortly after so I knew that I'd be visiting in April come hell or high water!

The new space, in a refurbished traditional building, just south of Gosho (the Imperial palace) and opposite the law courts on Yanagibaba street, is gorgeous - a delightful improvement of the former restaurant space (even though it was perfectly lovely!) as there was much more light and dining was all on one level. If you sat upstairs at Kezako you were separated from the action. My favourite spot was, and still is, the counter.

The food was happily still in keeping with the Kezako style. They've  even retained their signature dish of foie gras wrapped in nara zuke (daikon pickled in sake kasu for 2 years - it has a deep umami richness and mellow sweetness - perfection with foie gras) served with a tropical fruit sauce - which sounds very 80's to those of us who live in Australia but the flavours just sing together, the sweet fruit acid and perfume from the likes of pineapple and passionfruit makes for a curious but successful marriage.

Sweet but refreshing was this non alcoholic juice made from semillon grapes.  The wine selection is small but interesting and I also enjoyed a glass of fine Charddonay. 

First course in ode to spring was a type of raw trout from Lake Biwa  marintated in Bergamot, earl grey tea jelly,  almond crumble, topped with snap pea mousse, garnished with a wild mountain sprig that tastes of green peas and grated dekopon citrus.

The famous Foie gras in Narazuke ( as mentioned above) - the foie gras is wrapped in the pickle and aged for 10 days before serving - sensational. I just can't get enough of this dish. 

White bean soup with balsamic jelly and tiny seasonal, whole squid underneath. 

Stephan explaining each dish to diners.  And a side view of the soup/jelly layers.

Tai (snapper) fillet with nanohana (canola greens) and fresh shiitake stuffed with slow cooked pork leg and ika shiokara (salt fermented squid guts... sounds challenging to the uninitiated but truly this was delicious!)

Hard to resist nicking this great knife - luckily this restaurant is based in Japan where theft is unusual. Stephan - watch out for gaijins with large handbags!

Succulent pork from Kameoka, just west of Kyoto city with Jerusalem artichoke puree, roasted vegetables from Ohara - in the mountains north of Kyoto and a sauce including miso and fuki no tou - the buds of the slightly bitter fuki plant - the stems are also commonly used in season.

Precision and dedication.

Airy Coconut lime mousse on a sable topped with pistachio paste, yuzu miso ice cream and strawberries. Such a wonderful way to end the meal - I was pleased to meet this dish again - it's another favourite of mine and Stephan's ice cream was the inspiration for one of the recipes in my book Zenbu Zen - finding food, culture and balance in Kyoto. Thank you Stephan!

But wait! there's  more. Great coffee and perfect, chocolatey, coconutty, very cherry petits fours.

The lunch course, including coffee, was just under 6000yen. 

Congratulations Stephan and team -  and thank you for yet another wonderful meal. 

Jane x

Find the link below:

RYORIA STEPHEN PANTEL