Omiya dori Izakaya

Apologies, I have to confess I can't find any details for this Izakaya anywhere - mainly because I don't really know its name. The shop sign above features large Kanji (character) meaning Kaze (wind) which seems to be being nibbled on by a fish and I've looked up plenty of different versions of a possible name but so far no luck.  (If any locals know what this place is called please let me know!)  

However - all is well as it is really easy to find. 

Just head to Kyoto's Hankyu Line's Omiya station (just west of the main city grid) which you can see on the right hand side of the pic above.  (If you are downtown near the Shijo/Kawaramachi intersection you can easily locate the Hankyu station under the Takashimaya department store) 

To the left of the Omiya station building you'll see the entrance to an alleyway - between it and the 711  - this is Omiya Dori/Street where you will find plenty of restaurants and bars - and the odd pachinko parlour. 

This thin strip of Omiya dori is terribly atmospheric and worth a good wander  - stop in wherever you like but the windy fish place was quite good fun once we got passed the gatekeeper grilling things on sticks in the window. He was clearly trying to discourage us by scowling in our general direction but it only made us want to go there even more!! 

We walked up and back again a few times, gathering courage and taking in the surroundings 

( oh, just for the record Nijo castle is very near the northern end of the Omiya dori so if you are visiting there late in the afternoon this is the perfect spot to come for a drink and early dinner)

Then eventually we just pushed our way through the door. The funny thing is that once he realised we could read and speak a bit of Japanese and that we were totally into our food he completely melted and became our best friend. This is not a completely uncommon story in Japan. 

As you can see it was a pretty casual joint. The strips of paper on the wall? That's the menu. 

As it was summer when we visited... well, first things first 

Then came a range of small dishes ordered from the wall -  super fresh raw prawns and their roe

then grilled bacon

Some excellent grilled wagyu with grated daikon and spring onions just in time for the first glass of sake

Apparently the bar at the back is where all the regulars hang out - they were having a grand ol' time

                                                                      Next up yakitori

Then to our delight - the prawn heads and tails we'd left from the first raw course came back as crisp prawnie chips... deeelish. What a treat. 

Then came some juicy Gyoza

                                                             A head of grilled garlic

Some squid tentacle tempura

                                                     And a vegetable and yuba gratin

And... strangely we couldn't fit another thing in

Don't forget - to look for this shopfront and sign above . It is a few minutes walk from the entrance of the alley way (Omiya dori) on your right hand side (ie eastern side of the alley). Once you return to the entrance point of of the alley you will see this building if you look to your right - Cote d'Azur is a Karaoke joint - go crazy!

Perhaps you are interested in JANE LAWSON'S KYOTO CUISINE & CULTURE TOURS