Ohara Morning Market - Kyoto

I came across some photos today and was reminded about a couple of articles I was writing for SBS Feast Magazine at exactly this time last year.   One was about the wonders of Nishiki Market with a focus on pickles and another was my 'Kyoto Hit List'  - which recommended taking a trip to breathtaking Ohara in the mountains on the outskirts of Kyoto city to the north east. 

Ohara has always been one of my favourite day trips from Kyoto. Actually I say day trip but it is only about a 50 minutes bus ride north from Kyoto station but time is lost very easily in Ohara and it is usually late afternoon by the time I get back downtown.  

The place is so sleepy and serene it feels like you are far away from everything and if you are a tourist it is a lovely break from the sometimes intense tourist trail. I used to only ever head up there to visit the beautiful Sanzen-in (which I will post about soon) then I discovered Jakko-in a couple of Autumns ago and it blew my mind in its autumn colours - the walk from the bus stop, via farmland and rustic homes, to the temple is magical. Take a look HERE.

One of the other cool things about Ohara, and the reason so many locals take the trek up there on a Sunday morning - is the local farmers' market. 

Start your morning with a really good coffee, drip-filtered to order by this very friendly chap

then make your way around the 15 or so stalls selling fruit or veg plucked from their gardens that morning or dried lovingly in the sun, 

home made traditional sweets, 

 

western style pastries,

 sushi,  flowers and a small range of other food items - oh and a couple of crafty bits n pieces.  

It seems to be a bit of a local hang  - an excuse to catch up with the hard-working neighbours perhaps?  

Foreign visitors are looked upon with amusement and stifled giggles but it is all pretty relaxed  - which is a charming change from what can at times be a rather stitched up Kyoto. 

The market is open from 6:30 in the morning till about 11 or until everything is sold out -which can happen quite quickly some days.  So don't be late!

Just take the number 17  Bus from Kyoto station  (or one of its downtown stops - but a warning that the bus is often packed - which is why I like to get on at the start of the journey! and get off the bus at "SATO NO EKI" - which is just before the Ohara bus terminal (near Sanzen-in and the walking route to Jakko-in). Ask the bus driver for the correct stop and sit near the front so he can let you know. If you go too far and end up at the terminal - it is only a short walk back in the direction you came from - on the main road on the Eastern side. 

A few minutes walk back towards the city, on the same road, but on the opposite side  - is a cute store selling more local veg and sweets and some really good soy, local pickles,  salad dressings, miso, tofu etc - if you are staying in accommodation with a kitchen and are in town for a little while it is worth taking stopping in here.  I believe there is an organic restaurant nearby but I haven't eaten there yet -  that will be on my next mission!

Here's just a taste of what that walk from one to the other might look like.... a little bit of Ohara life...

In case you are seeking it out - below is the shop I mentioned earlier -with some of its wares ....

Stop in for a tasting!

Kamigamo Jinja - Four weddings and a handicraft market かみがも

On the fourth Sunday of every month the Kamigamo Jinja (shrine) in Northern Kyoto City holds a Tezukuri (handmade/handicraft) market.

 Local ceramicists, jewellers, bakers and clothing makers come out in force, mingling with vendors of organic drip filter coffee, veg from the garden and other more curious nic-nacs. Its a charming market for strolling around - particularly on a warm day when, as I discovered, the trickling of the stream that runs through it can make it seem less muggy than it actually is. 

FYI - if you happen to live in Kyoto or have hired an apartment with a kitchenette -these bagels were really pretty good! I have some in the freezer now - in fact yesterday my breakfast consisted of some toasted sesame bagels topped with bean jam (also purchased at the market) topped with kinako (roasted soy bean powder). Delish. 

I have to point out the side of these gigantic broad beans - note that the eggplant to their right are regular size...

Its a casual vibe and as you can see, its a place people like to walk their pets... or at least carry them. 

After the market I decided to take a look around the shrine as it was my first visit and can confirm it is definitely worth a gander if you are in the area.  Particularly if the market is on. 

Its common to see a wedding or two on the weekends at most large shrines however within the short time I was there I witnessed 4 - they were basically tailing each other. It was interesting to witness the expressions on the faces of some of the soon-to-be wed. From the impartial (possibly arranged marriage) to the nervous (understandably) to the giddily happy (obvious love match and/or clearly POST ceremony) - it was quite a show from this lurking spectator's perspective. Come join me in my voyeurism...

I returned to the gardens of the shrine for a last look around... and in hope of finding one of these cheeky creatures...

but to no avail. 

The day was divine so I strolled homewards along the river, keeping out of the way of cyclists...

 - and decided that a detour to Kitayama Dori should be made (hint: there are plenty of cafes and patisseries in the area).  In the backstreets on route I found plenty of locals tending some amazing flower gardens and veggie patches - some of them clearly for trade as you will see -  but just by the side of the road! Fascinating. 

Well after all that walking I deserved a little sumpthin' sumpthin' - this Rhum au baba was sensational. And the little, unexpected, sample cakes and cookies that came with it also fab! Now if only I could remember the name of the place.  Their wares are seriously good. Will endeavour to find out the name and get back to you!

And after a long day walking in the sun a coffee on ice went down a treat!