Turning Japanese I really think so...

This week SBS Food Online features a story I wrote for them on the rise and rise of Japanese cuisine. I spoke with many enthusiastic chefs and restaurateurs including Noma's Rene Redzepi and Peter Gilmore of Quay - wanna know what they had to say ? well take a lookie HERE!

Tempura Matsu

Hello, we are in the process of moving all Japan related content over to the ZENBU TOURS site and this page has already been transferred. You will find the page link HERE. 

Thanks for your patience. Cheers, Jane 

ORGANUM by Peter Gilmore.

                              Nature. Texture. Intensity. Purity.

A BEHIND THE SCENES PEEK INTO THE MAKING OF ORGANUM


Now that Organum is about to launch  - meaning there's been a gap in time large enough for me to step back and look at this incredible project from a distance - it has reminded me once again what a wonderful experience and great honour it has been, and will always be, to work with talented individuals who inspire and challenge you to grow as a creative.

Working closely with chef Peter Gilmore over the last 5 or 6 years on both Quay books has cemented our friendship and my respect for him as a person, a loving husband and father, and an abnormally creative talent. But Peter's curiosity for what makes things tick and subsequent ability to link seemingly random aspects of an idea - gently encouraging them into a harmoniously expressive state - is some kind of freaky.

And I don't mean to gush in a silly I have a 'foodie guru' kinda way - I'm all too aware of the current trend to deify certain food 'personalities'. My life, for good or bad, is fairly food centric and I've spent more than enough time around 'celebrity chef' wankery  - which is mostly encouraged by a few irresponsible media types rather than the chefs themselves (although there can be a knock on effect..).

Where I was leading to is this.. sure food is Pete's medium - but one has to wonder - if Peter's mind and intuition were invested in another field what other applications might his talents be suited to? I'm not implying world peace here... but then again - who knows.

Pete possesses a special kind of something which is hard to put a finger on. Mainly because he's quite simply a truly lovely, decent human being who doesn't live to toot his own trumpet. Who also just happens to have an ability to focus,  analyse and create in a way most people cannot. He has just enough ego to allow him to absorb some energy from his fans and utilise it in moving forward and enough gratitude to keep him humble, grounded, fair and realistic.

Peter knows what he wants and does whatever it takes to achieve it (as long a it is not to the detriment of others - he's just not that guy) but at the same time is open to adjusting his perspective should new information, concepts or possibilities come his way. He is constantly evolving his information bank and craft  -and not necessarily seeking it in the way the rest of us might, rather it seems to find him;  often while he meditates on a tiny dew drop balanced on a blossom of an edible flower growing in his impressive home garden - more accurately - a mini food farm. From which I have tasted the buds, leaves and grass of numerous exotic species and even nicked the odd yuzu and Japanese turnip for my own culinary purposes ! Yes, it is pretty fantastic.

It is without a doubt that I have edged my way a little deeper into Peter's world and mind through the process of making Organum.  I needed to make sure that together we got down on paper exactly what he wanted to say about every aspect of the contents in a way that the everyday punter would understand. Did we lock horns from time to time? Sure you could call it that I guess - but only in the  nicest possible, bendiest-plush-toy kinda way - as you can imagine of someone of Peter's character. We are both stubborn in our own special way, which is often required in our respective lines of work and related responsibilities - but without a doubt there was a healthy give and take from both sides. A good dose of respect and trust goes a long way in this kind of working relationship and we are fortunate to share that.

Regardless, you try being the person to tell one of the world's most highly acclaimed, respected and liked chefs 'no you can't say it like that because it doesn't really make sense....' or 'the marketing team isn't into that idea...' . Of course certain things make sense to Peter in a way that they might not to other people - that's what makes him so brilliant at what he does - but it was my job to make sure that 'the masses' could connect to his thoughts and feelings throughout the text. Peter communicates so sublimely through his cuisine that it sets off a complex range of emotions in most diners  - much like a unique artwork or piece of writing might - so there was no pressure at all....

One of the beautiful things about working together with a person you regard highly as a craft person and a human is that it allows you to have a little rethink about your own ideas from time to time and develop your abilities in ways you might never have anticipated. Throughout the process we certainly inspired each other to work in ways differently than we might have if we'd been working on our own. I'm grateful for the opportunity on so many levels.

But Peter isn't the only person I am honoured to have worked with on this title. Peter himself works with a great team at Quay, from his brilliant chefs and front of house lovelies to GM Kylie Ball and owners - The Fink Group. They have all made me feel like family for the entire time I've been lurking around Quay as we pulled these two books together. They know me well enough to know what I look like in the morning when I haven't had enough sleep and how I take my coffee. It often turns up before I've had a chance to think about it. (Thank you Robert x). They'll give me a good strong 'welcome back' hug when they haven't seen me for a week, they know when to feed me something they've been testing in the kitchen that I am gonna LOVE (Sam and Rob I'm looking at you - and the pastry crew!!)  and a plate will land in front of me when staff meal is up if I'm STILL hanging (sniffing) around. Occasionally I've been known to accept a glass of champers. Not complaining. The service team also developed a knack for politely-but-urgently tell me to piss off because they really need the green room to set up for a function.. But I would expect no less from the team at Quay. Culture is top down after all.

When it comes to a book project, especially one of this calibre, depth and size,  there are a whole lot of  behind the scenes people  involved at various stages of production who are rarely acknowledged.  Having worked for many years on both sides of the fence in book publishing I know it only too well. Thank you in particular to publisher Diana Hill,  for asking me to be involved in this project and trusting me to just get on with it.  I also want to give a shout out to the various editors on the book - especially the gorgeous Melody Lord who whipped things into shape at the 12th hour and to Christine Osmond for her work on the recipe testing - again, not a job for the average recipe tester ! And she ain't no average anything!

Before I took on this rather enormous and detailed gig I knew I'd be working with a treasured mate  -the enormously talented designer Reuben Crossman - who is just as stubborn and anal as me (but in an annoyingly brilliant way).  We've worked together on many projects including the first Quay book, Ben Shewry's Origin, most of Frank Camorra and co-writer Richard Cornish's MoVida books,  Matthew Evans' Real Food Companion and several of Pete Evans' books to name a few - and he's even designed a couple of my own titles too - Snowflakes and Schnapps and Zenbu Zen - finding food, culture and balance in Kyoto. He cannot help but go above and beyond and speaks a  different language to many people, even other creatives - that's why he works so damn well with Chef Gilmore.

Add to this heady cocktail of creative juices - one of the most technically superb photographers I have had the pleasure of working with (he also shot my books Snowflakes and Schnapps and made snowy villages appear in a north shore suburb of Sydney). There was no way on earth I could NOT work on this book. At the end of every recipe shoot day for Organum we'd gather around photographer Brett Stevens' screen at the resulting collection of images and literally go 'wow' - our lower jaws hanging slack. Actually there was sometimes a little bit of sweary excitement.

When working for an extended period (about 18 months) with a bunch of perfectionists with strong ideas you could be forgiven for thinking there might have been regular clashes - but honestly - if anything there was mild frustration from one party or another for mere minutes on the odd day and that's about it!. And what we collectively understand with much experience behind us all  - is that it is absolutely part of the process in a collaborative work and what it does do, alongside all the other queries and checks,  is help to produce a result much more layered and enigmatic than the sum of its parts - which is what Organum is all about... You'll have to read the book to find out more on that ;).

Even if you don't read it - you simply must fondle its textural cover, sniff its pages and wonder at the amazing imagery. But of course you should do that in the privacy of your own home.

Yesterday the Peter Gilmore App  for i-pad went LIVE - and it, like Organum, is a thing of beauty. Yet another layer of the Peter Gilmore and Organum story with stunning food porny video to boot!. A magnificent collaboration between Peter, Reuben, Brett and the exceptional Pollen Digital   

Chef Peter Gilmore Does Kyoto

"Spending time in Kyoto with Jane gave me a deeper insight into the Japanese culture. The Japanese emphasis on beautiful presentation and how they represent nature and the seasons have been an almost subconscious influence on me. Because of Jane's experience and network I had greater access to the culture."

Peter Gilmore

Executive Chef, Quay Restaurant, Sydney

Earlier this year I had the great honour of showing friend and Guru-Chef Peter Gilmore of  Quay around my second home - Kyoto.

Peter and I met about 5 or 6 years ago when I was the Food Publisher at Murdoch Books - I  managed to convince him and the Fink Group to allow us to publish Quay Restaurant's first book and recently we just finished making the second - which is one of the most stunning books I've ever seen (not at all biased)- and I haven't even held a hard copy yet! Keep an eye out for it later this year - no doubt I'll be giving it a shout out when it hits the shelves so stay tuned.

We've spent many, many hours working together on both books  - and in our breaks we often chatted about our mutual interest in Japan (well my obsession with Kyoto mostly!)  and her amazing culinary culture.  

Peter has travelled to Japan on several occasions and he so enjoyed his first Kyoto experience, some years back, that he thought he'd make the most of my being there in January (hosting my inaugural Kyoto Winter Cuisine and Culture Tours) and flew over for a closer look into the food culture with me by his side. 

We packed a lot into a few short days - eating the most stunning food of course, investigating local ingredients at food markets,  chatting with producers and chefs, admiring the most beautiful ceramics (purchases were made), sitting on temple decks contemplating life and Omotenashi (Japanese hospitality) with a wonderful monk,  meeting fascinating locals and keen food farmers and scanning artisan galleries for everything from handmade paper to knives. 

(pretty excited to spot a Maiko/trainee Geisha and a fully fledged Geisha below in red)

It wasn't enough time of course but it was just a little taste of what guests experience on my full length tours - Zenbu Ryori, Zenbu Zen and Zenbu Nigeru. Pete will just have to come back next winter!

As with all my tours we stayed at the Kyoto Hyatt Regency Hotel and were so very well looked after by General Manager Ken Yokoyama - who has to be THE most wonderful hotel manager in the universe - and also his excellent staff including Executive Chef Shaun Keenan who arranged for Peter to visit one of the restaurant's kitchens to examine the house miso and pickles! Thank you team Hyatt! Kyoto and I look forward to sharing more with you next time PG! 

Ps - see the strips of paper on the wall above -that's the menu. Between 6 of us - we ate the wall!

You can find more details on my 
Kyoto Cuisine and Culture Tours here 
or you can email me directly for e-brochures at janelawsonfood@bigpond.com.au

Please go here to read some tour testimonials.


Hope to see you in Kyoto soon ! Jane 

Quay June 2013

I was invited to lunch at Quay last week. 

Was I free to join my friend? 

If I'd had open heart surgery scheduled I would have moved it. 

Of course I was bloody free. 

It had been a year since my last meal at Quay - during a quick excursion back to Oz from Japan to visit family - so I was more than ready to experience Peter Gilmore's wonderful food again.

Here's a quick peek of a meal that was so delightful in every way.  I love that while the food remains consistently excellent there are subtle changes in the art of it all which means a meal at Quay always holds little surprises. 

Rosehip and radish to start proceedings

Red claw yabbies, Garlic scented custard, Yabby velvet 

Raw smoked Blackmore wagyu, Fresh Dory Roe, Horseradish juice soured cream, Milk skin

Roasted goose, Forbidden rice, Black miso, Hatsuka radish

Hapuka, Aniseed scented herbs, Creme fraiche, Japanese white turnips, Shaved Tasmanian squid, Stems, Leaves, Petals

Pasture raised veal, Bitter chocolate black pudding, Green walnuts, Slow cooked wallaby tail, Salsify, Smoked bone marrow, Chestnut mushrooms

Andalucia. Citrus and Almonds 

Truffles in a pumpkin with coffee. I can still taste the caramel and hazelnut. 

Sigh... Lunch at Quay. Well someone's gotta do it...

A brief trip to Sydney at the end of May couldn't have ended on a higher high. My lovely friends at Quay restaurant invited myself and partner for lunch before we jumped back on the plane to Kyoto. It was such a pleasure to experience a meal here again after so long and to introduce my ex wine maker boy to the joys of both the food and wine menus, the vista and the wonderful Mr John Fink and Kylie Ball. Thank you guys xx

 Chef Gilmore was on leave at the time but the gorgeous and talented Analiese Gregory did him proud as usual. We love starchef Analiese. Pocket rocket and style queen to boot.

If you have seen my prior posts on Quay you will know that I am more than a fan. So instead of repeating myself with the same culinary superlatives I will simply provide a few shots and descriptions of particular dishes. All of which... needless to say really.. ROCKED!!

Fragrant Jasmine tea poached chicken, shaved hand dived sea scallops, Chinese artichokes, smoked white eggplant cream, pea blossoms, perfumed with Korean virgin black sesame oil

Gentle braise prawns, octopus, diamond shell clams, heirloom radish, pink turnips, baby squid and sea urchin

Smoked and confit pig cheek, shiitake, shaved scallop, Jerusalem artichoke leaves, juniper, bay

Shiitake, chestnut and nameko mushrooms, root vegetables, aged gouda custard, hazelnuts, white lentil leaves, cumin

Berkshire pig jowl, maltose crackling, prunes, cauliflower cream, perfumed with prune kernel oil

John Fink and Kylie ball - always great to see the crew enjoying a meal in their own restaurant!

Jersey cream, salted caramel, prunes, walnuts, ethereal sheets (oh mama!)

Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse, fresh mangosteen, custard apple, feijoa ice cream, coconut cream

If you are Australian I probably don't need to tell you that above is the Guava Snowegg - one of Quay's now famous signature desserts (partially thanks to its debut on Masterchef) and below is the 8 textured chocolate cake that Mr Fink will have you believe I wet my pants over when I first tasted it...  that story has slightly evolved from the original description of my blushing, tears and laughter - which were actual responses.  Just to set the record straight!  But the pants wetting makes a good story so I am happy for him to sustain the myth - and just pray it doesn't escalate!

Money shot!

These truffles were so good I bagged some and took them home to friends we were staying with - who really did wet their pants....

Thanks again lovely Quay peeps  - especially to the staff who were on duty that day who always make me feel like I am walking into a relaxed but special party at a friend's place. xx

Quay Restaurant - Sydney

I've been spoilt. Many times. 

I must have eaten at Quay on a dozen or so occasions during the last few years (one of the lovelier aspects of being a cookbook publisher !) and have formed a close friendship with a few of the crew - including Peter Gilmore (one of the nicest and most talented chefs you could ever wish to meet,  the fabulous Mr John Fink (General Manager of the Fink Group who own the restaurant) and Kylie Ball (uber lovely and clever Operations Manager).   Handy peeps to be buddies with at the end of the day - but as it happens they all rock ! As do the rest of the team who make me feel part of the family every time I walk through the door  - and like a princess when I'm at the table.  Thanks guys. 

Each time I have the pleasure of dining at Quay I have a moment where I anticipate the possibility that I might, on that particular occasion, start to feel like I have "been there, done that" because, sadly, it has happened to me at many restaurants on repeat visitations... But not once have I felt that way at Quay - in fact, if it is possible, it just keeps getting better.  Peter Gilmore is a freak - in the best possible way.

Last week I enjoyed lunch with 3 sake makers who were visiting from Japan. One of them spends over 300 days a year travelling and eating his way around the best restaurants in the world. He is rather difficult to impress when it comes to food and sways strongly towards straight up French haute cuisine - so I was a little nervous about introducing him to Quay (which was utterly ridiculous of course - it is one of the top 50 restaurants in the world for bleep's sake!). Naturally he was blown away  - as were his colleagues - and so was I. All over again. In fact it was as close to perfect as a meal might be. 

There's no point in gushing over individual dishes as they were all as wonderful as each other - instead I shall let the pics speak for themselves...

Amuse bouche of smoked carrot puree, eel jelly, rye crumbs

 Black winter truffle, roasted hazelnut, jamon de bellota, salsify, shaved mushrooms, juniper, pea flowers (the sauce underneath is an mayonnaise-like sauce made from whipped jamon fat)

Salad of pickled rhubarb, endive, beetroot, purple carrot, rosa radish, kohlrabi, sheeps milk curd, pomegranate molasses, violet

Organic heirloom carrots, cumin, fennel & celery seeds, comte-infused curd, almonds, amaranth

Gentle braise of black lipped abalone, rare breed pig belly, shiitake, native warrigal greens, ginger scented milk curd, wakame juices, tasmanian wasabi flowers

Berkshire pig jowl, maltose crackling, prunes, cauliflower cream, perfumed with prune kernel oil

 Roasted new season chestnuts, grain, nut and seed risotto, truffle cream

If there was ever a restaurant that DIDN'T require a view...  but hey,  what can you do - Harbour bridge on my left, Opera House straight ahead... ho hum....

Guava and custard apple snow egg (even after all the hype - it's still sensational)

Wild cherry compote, coconut cream, chuao chocolate crumble, cherry juice and chocolate sorbet (OMG)

Quay's 8 textured chocolate cake

(Now let me tell you - before we tested this recipe for the book we thought "hey, it is just going to be too hard for the home cook" - but our recipe tester nailed it - a testament to Peter's recipe writing skills. It is a lot of work, but not difficult - and worth buying the book for this recipe alone!!.  I am a little biased of course...  but it IS a thing of beauty and works just as well on the coffee table as in the kitchen - so go on - what are you waiting for?!)