Showing posts with label Yasaka jinja. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yasaka jinja. Show all posts

Thursday, September 11, 2014

More Kyoto Strolling...

If you have been following this blog you will know that a) it can be a little bit random at times and b) I like to stroll and snap my way through Kyoto. I've shared various walks and wanderings via my images and will continue to do so as the mood strikes me. Today I'm returning back to a walk I have done many times and each time I find new things to share. 

When exiting the main gates of  Kiyomizu Dera you will walk down a very busy cobbled street lined with souvenir shops and the like - if you bypass all this and keep walking straight ahead you will find a set of stairs to your right that lead down to another street - Sannenzaka -which, if you follow it all the way around turns into Ninenzaka - there are plenty of shops, cafes etc to stop in and you could spend the whole day here if you really liked to shop. 
Recently I noticed this new soap shop and its unique sales strategy.  There are sinks with running water for you to try the soap - which feels like jelly in your hands - the girls above are checking it out. It was a pretty strange sensation but the soap was very nice on my skin and came in a variety of pleasant scents. I was particularly taken with the packaging. Either in bamboo leaf or cloth - like mini versions of the traditional Furoshiki cloth which people used to take to the onsen to wrap their belongings in when they stripped off for the bath. Furoshiki are now commonly used to wrap gifts. 
Instead of turning right onto Ninenzaka from Sannenzaka - you can choose to walk straight ahead - in a westerly direction.  This area has been having a bit of a refurb in the last couple of years and one of the  most bizarre things I have seen in some time is this Kiwi Pie shop. Of course as an Aussie we think we own the meat pie but my Kiwi friends tell me differently.  I  met the owner - he isn't Kiwi, Aussie or Japanese. I think perhaps South African judging by the accent. Close enough to Kiwi/Aussie I guess!
ok so we have a meat pie, a meat and cream cheese pie and a shepherd's pie (Shiepaado pai). The cream cheese must be a Kiwi thing??
Look right and you will see this charming tea house - which looks more like  a temple to me and in fact may well have once been one? I need to do some more investigation here. 
Just after the tea house is this ceramic artists studio - there's always a pretty eclectic collection of items on sale  - sometimes a little, how should I put this? indelicate? Keep an eye out for it if you are in the area -you really can't miss it.  These are some of the more PG items. 
A little further south and you'll walk past the tiered Yasaka pagoda (seen in the first picture of this post) and then come to a small temple on your left - Yasaka Koshindo (above) - a very popular place for  brides and grooms or 'Maiko dress up' peeps to have their photos taken. Yes, you too can dress up as a Maiko (trainee geisha) and parade around Kyoto for the day having your photo professionally taken - however selfies seem to be flavour of the moment... yes even in Kyoto.
Kukurizaru are the colourful climbing monkey dolls that protect the temple guardian Koshin san. If you look carefully below at the strings of 'monkeys' you will notice their hands and feet are tied so as not to succumb to earthy desires and enable one to keep focused on achieving your goal - no cheeky monkey business here. These monkey's also hang outside some homes and businesses to protect the inhabitants as monkeys are believed to be kind spirits who can ward off evil. The three wise monkey's mantra of hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil comes into play here and you can even see carvings of the wise three in the temple grounds. 
If you do an about face from the temple you will see a street heading north - it leads you in the direction of Yasaka Jinja (shrine). There are a few new cafes and shops here which so far are much less crowded than other areas... but I'm sure it won't be long until they are discovered. 
I love the look of these two below but haven't stopped in either so will report back when I do so!
This one is a Gallery Cafe - note the faded monkey's to your left.
The menu offers just a few hot and cold drinks,  few cakes and desserts
Now I believe the building below used to be a function centre/wedding reception place but now boasts  the AKAGANE cafe with a limited menu - and  a more expensive restaurant. 
                        I love the combination of the modern aesthetic with the older building.
Nearby is Ishibe koji - apparently the most beautiful street in Kyoto and indeed it is handsome (see below) but Kyoto town is not short on beautiful streets, places and spaces - I don't know how you would pick really...
Nearing Maruyama Kooen (park) I  snapped this young lady... looking a little annoyed that I was pointing in her direction but I love the serenity surrounding her.
This Teahouse is an oldie but a goodie - just a few minutes walk south of the south exit of Maruyama park  - they have a gorgeous Japanese garden and Koi pond to gaze onto as you sip.
And just a couple of doors north of this place is the Kyoto offshoot of the gorgeous Patisserie Des Reves.
If your feet are too tired from walking you can always hire a rickshaw - although I would never do that to one of these poor fellows. They are completely ripped but even so I'd hate to see them struggling to get my bottom up one of Kyoto's hills!
The beautiful Maruyama Kooen - known for it's famous Cherry blossoms it is also gorgeous at any time of the year for various reasons. The perfect spot for a picnic.
Walk west through the park and you hit the Yasaka Shrine. The people below are waking up the gods by ringing the bells attached to the ropes  - hopefully he will hear their wishes and prayers. 
                                                           South exit of Yasaka Shrine
Just west of the south exit is the spot to buy your ema (wooden plaques) for writing down your thoughts - further ensuring your wishes and prayers are heard.  To the right is one of several sub shrines within Yasaka Jinja.
If you exit through the main gate to at the western edge of  Yasaka jinja (shrine) you will hit Shijo dori (street) which runs from the eastern side of the city right through to Arashiyama in the west. Just a few minutes walk from the west gate is Gion - the most famous geisha quarter in Kyoto.
Turn left (south) at Hanamikoji street (by the way there is a large Yojiya store on the corner here (with a giant Yojiya lady's head in a shop sign on top of the building so you can't miss it) and you will find yourself in a very atmospheric part of town. 

Oku is a great little cafe/lunch stop if you are in the area. And they now have a bar and dinner service.  The lunch set is around $30 - so not the cheapest place in town for a bite but it has such a lovely calm, modern zen atmosphere.
Around the corner from here is a serene little spot for a cuppa - Zen cafe. Kagizen confectionery offers a delightfully quiet area for tasting their famous Wagashi (Japanese confectionery) with your brew of choice.
                                                   I love this mini courtyard garden.
Walk complete.

If you'd fancy touring around Kyoto with me 
you might like to take a peek at my 



And here are a few links to some more of my Kyoto Meanderings.....





Sunday, March 10, 2013

Strolling on a Kyoto Summer's Eve


With the weather currently still so cold in Kyoto town it feels a little odd to be posting about summer but that is a direct indication of  how far I am behind the 8 ball with sorting through my images.  

Spring is doing its thing in Japan right now and the Ume (plum) are blooming  - albeit much later than usual due to the long, cold winter the country is experiencing.  (did I mention I am green with envy?) The Sakura (cherry blossoms) will be smiling shortly and I'm craving a visit... fortunately I won't have to wait long... but I digress. As I tend to do. 

Sydney is moving into the slightly cooler weather of Autumn - thank God! I've made it through my first back-to-back summer experience - and concede that Kyoto feels about 20 times hotter and more humid than Sydney.  So in farewell to summers far and near I'm giving you a little taste of the more pleasant side of the season in Kyoto. In previous posts I have vented, in colourful detail, about  my extreme dislike for the incredible heat and humidity experienced from around June to end September in Kyoto's bonchi (basin) so it really is about time I say something positive. 

If I'm honest - the very start and end of  summer are bearable - I'm an Aussie and I can hack it (just) -  but July and August are slash your wrists intense. You will thank me for this warning - don't bother attempting to travel around Kyoto at that time of the year unless you are super hard core or have accommodation with excellent air conditioning and a swimming pool and don't mind living in a slick of your own sweat at all other times - or feeling as though you are going to collapse every few meters as you walk at a zombie like pace through air that is as dense as a swamp.  I did say I was going to report something positive right?... let me see..
It was August so there was no way we were heading out on an adventure at any time other than evening to visit the Gojozaka/Kiyomizu-yaki ceramic festival.  We started our walk at the gates of the Yasaka jinja above. I loved seeing dating young couples dressed in yukata (a lightweight cotton Kimono) - romance was definitely in the air.  Tick.
And that's my boy dressed in his colorful best - all in ode to the season of course - and Uniqlo!

 Looking back towards the city along Shijo dori (street) we had fun spotting the summer roof-top beer bars and watching the usually reserved locals letting their hair down. That's what summer is in Kyoto. It's too freakin' hot to pretend you are feeling fresh and breezy - you just have to drink enough ice cold beer to put you to sleep for the night!
As the sun sank into the mountains the light hitting the vermilion paint of the Yasaka Shrine drew us in like moths to a flame. 
Someone's happy. One of the most important parts of the summer festival is Obon (when the spirits of the dead return to earth to visit their families before being sent back on their way a few days later - the lantern light, floating candles and the bonfires of Daimonji and Co to illuminate their path) - for which fun (and supposedly spooky) seasonal lanterns like these above and below-were displayed along the cobbled streets leading to Kiyomizu Temple area. 
Some lanterns are just beautiful as they are - like this business signage which you can see all year round.
The sun continued to set but sadly it didn't get any cooler - it is a really good thing that Kyoto is so gorgeous....

A gorgeous old noren (split curtain) at a local restaurant
Sake vending machine - almost as important as beer
Rickshaws are popular around Kyoto tourist spots and let me tell you those boys are super-fit  - and often pretty cute. Some of the best -looking and friendliest menfolk in Kyoto are pulling rickshaws - a rather smart initiative on the part of the rickshaw business owners!
Local crafts, bags etc made with Kimono material 
Back out onto the main drag of Higashioji dori we came across the Rokudo Mairi festival (sign above) attached to the Rokudo Chinnouji temple - it marks the commencement of Obon so thought we'd better check out on route to the ceramics festival - it was only a minor detour after all.  And just slightly more important in the scheme of things.
Chinese lantern plant - in keeping with the lantern theme - very popular at this time of the year
Incense  - an important part of temple and home life in Japan
Wafting the incense plume over selves and written prayers for good luck, good health and happiness
Summer means Kakigori time - shaved ice drizzled with sweet syrups
It seems the flavour of the day is Ramune below ( Japanese lemonade)
Floral offerings
The festival continues on the street

More Kakigori - in flavours of strawberry, lemon, melon, grape, orange, apple, cola, black sugar etc
At a temple around the corner a mother shows her son how to get the gods' attention 
Up high I spot a family looking down at us... they all look scarily similar
Back on Gojo Dori (street) we finally reach our intended destination - the ceramics fair. It wasn't exactly what we were anticipating...
Hand cut gourd lamps above and freaky character soft toys and cushions below... not quite ceramics but fun to see anyway
Cold drinks, burgers and cosplay
Walking back towards home we came across the familiar sites and scents of Gion
The Kamogawa (Kamo river) was helpfully lit for strolling during Tanabata (the star festival) - and for spirit guidance ....
The lovely thing about summer's eves in Kyoto town is that you get to see people out and about, having fun and relaxing. During winter most people are tucked up in their homes quite early in an attempt to keep as warm as possible. 
Local buildings are strewn with bright lanterns
Come on - it's time to go home....
Or... maybe just one ice cold beer ( literally on ice) with a couple of delicious snacks from one of our favourite joints on Pontocho - Ajiro (Kushiyaki-ya and Obanzai - ie things grilled on sticks and Kyoto homestyle dishes).
Taro cooked in dashi, a mayonnaise dressed salad of cooked seasonal veg, fried eggplant
Who knew ice + beer could be so damn good. This particular variety is only available in Summer - it was slightly fruity and extremely refreshing. When I returned to the same place in autumn the beer was available in a new seasonal flavour - with slightly more spice in the mix. I LOVE that about Japan. There are enough people to manufacture a beer (or other food or liquor product) just for one season. 
Gobo - burdock in a sesame dressing
Excellent Chicken Karaage
Huge  and deliciousTsukune ( chicken meatballs - yakitori) 
Grilled Bacon and cheese ( bloke's choice...)
This curious medicine shop is on route to our place  - I am always completely fascinated with what's in the window and hadn't noticed until recently how very cheeky that monkey is...
Same to you buddy!
Skulls, snakes, snake eggs... you know that kind of thing...