Naoshima Art Island - Japan

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Obon and Daimonji Festival

It is the annual Obon festival right now in Japan. This sacred time on the Japanese calendar lasts several days during which the dearly departed return to earth to visit their families. Tonight August 16th 2014 hosts the famous Daimonji (more formally 'Gozan no okuribi') bonfire light up in Kyoto town.  

If you look carefully you can see the bonfires and officials milling around as they prepare to light the bonfires. This Kanji is Dai meaning large or great. By the by if you see this Kanji on the button of a Japanese toilet it means the larger flush!

The 5 burning Kanji and images that cover  the mountain ranges surrounding Kyoto is an absolute must-see if you are in Kyoto in summer  - along with the Gion Matsuri it is a stunning highlight and provides some light relief from the summer heat and humidity. 

The flames of the Daimonji festival bonfires (or 'okuribi -send off fires'), which commence at Mt Daimonji (Daimonji-yama) to the east of Kyoto town and which gradually move round to the western mountain range -  a new image lighting up as soon as the last one is starting to fade, as well as the light from many other lit lanterns all over the city and the waterways, help to purify the night and light the pathway for the spirits to make their journey back into the spiritual realm. 

The fading light of Daimonji

Fune - the ferry - to aid the journey home

I've only experienced one Daimonji as it is just so damn hot in Kyoto in summer my pasty bod can't handle it and do my best to avoid the city. Some locals have not experienced Daimonji for the same reason! However it is extremely popular with those who can stand the heat!!

So our first and possibly only Daimonji party was held two years ago on the rooftop of our apartment building, one of the tallest in Kyoto - we had the most stunning vista and the place to ourselves until just prior to the bonfires being lit. 

We picnicked, drank our homemade ume-shu, found a new Japanese friend Shuji -who lived in the apartment block and brought his guitar for a singalong  - he played and sang so beautifully -and were totally blown away by the vision of loveliness as people farewelled their loved ones again - until next year.  Such a touching festival. 

Downtown in Higashi Gion local restaurants and businesses displayed their own gorgeous hand made lanterns, often painted with images of  Obon or Daimonji related scenes or vegetables and flowers of the season  - an artistic representation of the food offerings left outside houses or in alters for when spirited relations arrive to say hello. Take a look. 

Perhaps you are interested in JANE LAWSON'S KYOTO CUISINE & CULTURE TOURS?

Tanabata Festival

Hopeful romantics start your engines - Tanabata Festival, also known as the Star Festival, is nigh.

Although  - to confuse things slightly it is celebrated on either July or August 7 depending on where you are in Japan or who you are with.

The extremely abbreviated version of  ONE of the fables behind the festival is that two young lovers not of this earth (let's call them dalliancing deities - in this case represented by stars) were forced apart by father/god, as penance for neglecting their chores due to spending too much time together. Sometime later, feeling sorry for the couple who were desperate to hang out  - the father/god agreed to allow them to meet just once a year, on the 7th day of the 7th month. Yes July is the 7th month to us but according to the Chinese Lunar Calendar February is the first month meaning August is the 7th. All clear now?

The streets are lined with long paper streamers representing the notes written to each other across the milky way (or possibly the tails of a shooting star - that's my personal interpretation anyway)  and long strips of fabric or textiles (the chick star apparently had to do a lot of catch up on her weaving to prove herself worthy of re-meeting her star lover) - or is that from another version of the story? Smaller paper notes with messages of love and hope - or wishes for good handwriting or sewing apparently - are tied onto branches. As are paper stars - and twinkling lights - very pretty.

There's yet another rendition of the fable which involves burying some sandals under bamboo or some such thing - hence the green tubes... but now I'm even confusing myself.  No matter what it's a fun, glittery party! And it is free - all you have to do is go for a walk. 

Take a look here for some info by clearly more informed peeps than I.

In Kyoto there is an especially lovely gathering along the Kamogawa river (as you will see from these photos). Young women in summer kimono ( Yukata ) wander about hoping to meet the man of their dreams  - although I'm not sure exactly how successful they are with all those stars in their eyes....  boom-tish!

And of course there are couples canoodling in corners, swept up in the romance of it all. And possibly casting smug glances at all the single ladies... all the single ladies 

And if it rains on the 7th it is said that you will have no chance of finding your mate so pack up, go home and wait for next year. How festive....

 And if you do happen to snaffle a new love there are plenty of yuka (restaurant decks constructed only for the summer months) for sharing a drink or meal together.  Could be the start of a beautiful thing?

We didn't do the yuka thing on this occasion  -instead we ate nearby on Kiyamachi dori at Toridori - a place we'd walked by a few times and were keen to try. The split leveled restaurant sported an attractive fit out 

but sadly the food wasn't amazing. And more expensive than it should have been. 

Spring onion salad with crisp yuba above was just ok.

Summer oden below  - with overly fishy dashi jelly and tomatoes - did not float my boat. I did however think it was a great idea. Just not well executed. 

 The grilled chicken bums and veg was ok but nothing to write home about.

Strolling on a Kyoto Summer's Eve

With the weather currently still so cold in Kyoto town it feels a little odd to be posting about summer but that is a direct indication of  how far I am behind the 8 ball with sorting through my images.  

Spring is doing its thing in Japan right now and the Ume (plum) are blooming  - albeit much later than usual due to the long, cold winter the country is experiencing.  (did I mention I am green with envy?) The Sakura (cherry blossoms) will be smiling shortly and I'm craving a visit... fortunately I won't have to wait long... but I digress. As I tend to do. 

Sydney is moving into the slightly cooler weather of Autumn - thank God! I've made it through my first back-to-back summer experience - and concede that Kyoto feels about 20 times hotter and more humid than Sydney.  So in farewell to summers far and near I'm giving you a little taste of the more pleasant side of the season in Kyoto. In previous posts I have vented, in colourful detail, about  my extreme dislike for the incredible heat and humidity experienced from around June to end September in Kyoto's bonchi (basin) so it really is about time I say something positive. 

If I'm honest - the very start and end of  summer are bearable - I'm an Aussie and I can hack it (just) -  but July and August are slash your wrists intense. You will thank me for this warning - don't bother attempting to travel around Kyoto at that time of the year unless you are super hard core or have accommodation with excellent air conditioning and a swimming pool and don't mind living in a slick of your own sweat at all other times - or feeling as though you are going to collapse every few meters as you walk at a zombie like pace through air that is as dense as a swamp.  I did say I was going to report something positive right?... let me see..

It was August so there was no way we were heading out on an adventure at any time other than evening to visit the Gojozaka/Kiyomizu-yaki ceramic festival.  We started our walk at the gates of the Yasaka jinja above. I loved seeing dating young couples dressed in yukata (a lightweight cotton Kimono) - romance was definitely in the air.  Tick.

And that's my boy dressed in his colorful best - all in ode to the season of course - and Uniqlo!

 Looking back towards the city along Shijo dori (street) we had fun spotting the summer roof-top beer bars and watching the usually reserved locals letting their hair down. That's what summer is in Kyoto. It's too freakin' hot to pretend you are feeling fresh and breezy - you just have to drink enough ice cold beer to put you to sleep for the night!

As the sun sank into the mountains the light hitting the vermilion paint of the Yasaka Shrine drew us in like moths to a flame. 

Someone's happy. One of the most important parts of the summer festival is Obon (when the spirits of the dead return to earth to visit their families before being sent back on their way a few days later - the lantern light, floating candles and the bonfires of Daimonji and Co to illuminate their path) - for which fun (and supposedly spooky) seasonal lanterns like these above and below-were displayed along the cobbled streets leading to Kiyomizu Temple area. 

Some lanterns are just beautiful as they are - like this business signage which you can see all year round.

The sun continued to set but sadly it didn't get any cooler - it is a really good thing that Kyoto is so gorgeous....

A gorgeous old noren (split curtain) at a local restaurant

Sake vending machine - almost as important as beer

Rickshaws are popular around Kyoto tourist spots and let me tell you those boys are super-fit  - and often pretty cute. Some of the best -looking and friendliest menfolk in Kyoto are pulling rickshaws - a rather smart initiative on the part of the rickshaw business owners!

Local crafts, bags etc made with Kimono material 

Back out onto the main drag of Higashioji dori we came across the Rokudo Mairi festival (sign above) attached to the Rokudo Chinnouji temple - it marks the commencement of Obon so thought we'd better check out on route to the ceramics festival - it was only a minor detour after all.  And just slightly more important in the scheme of things.

Chinese lantern plant - in keeping with the lantern theme - very popular at this time of the year

Incense  - an important part of temple and home life in Japan

Wafting the incense plume over selves and written prayers for good luck, good health and happiness

Summer means Kakigori time - shaved ice drizzled with sweet syrups

It seems the flavour of the day is Ramune below ( Japanese lemonade)

Floral offerings

The festival continues on the street

More Kakigori - in flavours of strawberry, lemon, melon, grape, orange, apple, cola, black sugar etc

At a temple around the corner a mother shows her son how to get the gods' attention 

Up high I spot a family looking down at us... they all look scarily similar

Back on Gojo Dori (street) we finally reach our intended destination - the ceramics fair. It wasn't exactly what we were anticipating...

Hand cut gourd lamps above and freaky character soft toys and cushions below... not quite ceramics but fun to see anyway

Cold drinks, burgers and cosplay

Walking back towards home we came across the familiar sites and scents of Gion

The Kamogawa (Kamo river) was helpfully lit for strolling during Tanabata (the star festival) - and for spirit guidance ....

The lovely thing about summer's eves in Kyoto town is that you get to see people out and about, having fun and relaxing. During winter most people are tucked up in their homes quite early in an attempt to keep as warm as possible. 

Local buildings are strewn with bright lanterns

Come on - it's time to go home....

Or... maybe just one ice cold beer ( literally on ice) with a couple of delicious snacks from one of our favourite joints on Pontocho - Ajiro (Kushiyaki-ya and Obanzai - ie things grilled on sticks and Kyoto homestyle dishes).

Taro cooked in dashi, a mayonnaise dressed salad of cooked seasonal veg, fried eggplant

Who knew ice + beer could be so damn good. This particular variety is only available in Summer - it was slightly fruity and extremely refreshing. When I returned to the same place in autumn the beer was available in a new seasonal flavour - with slightly more spice in the mix. I LOVE that about Japan. There are enough people to manufacture a beer (or other food or liquor product) just for one season. 

Gobo - burdock in a sesame dressing

Excellent Chicken Karaage

Huge  and deliciousTsukune ( chicken meatballs - yakitori) 

Grilled Bacon and cheese ( bloke's choice...)

This curious medicine shop is on route to our place  - I am always completely fascinated with what's in the window and hadn't noticed until recently how very cheeky that monkey is...

Same to you buddy!

Skulls, snakes, snake eggs... you know that kind of thing...