Obon and Daimonji Festival

It is the annual Obon festival right now in Japan. This sacred time on the Japanese calendar lasts several days during which the dearly departed return to earth to visit their families. Tonight August 16th 2014 hosts the famous Daimonji (more formally 'Gozan no okuribi') bonfire light up in Kyoto town.  

If you look carefully you can see the bonfires and officials milling around as they prepare to light the bonfires. This Kanji is Dai meaning large or great. By the by if you see this Kanji on the button of a Japanese toilet it means the larger flush!

The 5 burning Kanji and images that cover  the mountain ranges surrounding Kyoto is an absolute must-see if you are in Kyoto in summer  - along with the Gion Matsuri it is a stunning highlight and provides some light relief from the summer heat and humidity. 

The flames of the Daimonji festival bonfires (or 'okuribi -send off fires'), which commence at Mt Daimonji (Daimonji-yama) to the east of Kyoto town and which gradually move round to the western mountain range -  a new image lighting up as soon as the last one is starting to fade, as well as the light from many other lit lanterns all over the city and the waterways, help to purify the night and light the pathway for the spirits to make their journey back into the spiritual realm. 

The fading light of Daimonji

Fune - the ferry - to aid the journey home

I've only experienced one Daimonji as it is just so damn hot in Kyoto in summer my pasty bod can't handle it and do my best to avoid the city. Some locals have not experienced Daimonji for the same reason! However it is extremely popular with those who can stand the heat!!

So our first and possibly only Daimonji party was held two years ago on the rooftop of our apartment building, one of the tallest in Kyoto - we had the most stunning vista and the place to ourselves until just prior to the bonfires being lit. 

We picnicked, drank our homemade ume-shu, found a new Japanese friend Shuji -who lived in the apartment block and brought his guitar for a singalong  - he played and sang so beautifully -and were totally blown away by the vision of loveliness as people farewelled their loved ones again - until next year.  Such a touching festival. 

Downtown in Higashi Gion local restaurants and businesses displayed their own gorgeous hand made lanterns, often painted with images of  Obon or Daimonji related scenes or vegetables and flowers of the season  - an artistic representation of the food offerings left outside houses or in alters for when spirited relations arrive to say hello. Take a look. 

Perhaps you are interested in JANE LAWSON'S KYOTO CUISINE & CULTURE TOURS?

Tanabata Festival

Hopeful romantics start your engines - Tanabata Festival, also known as the Star Festival, is nigh.

Although  - to confuse things slightly it is celebrated on either July or August 7 depending on where you are in Japan or who you are with.

The extremely abbreviated version of  ONE of the fables behind the festival is that two young lovers not of this earth (let's call them dalliancing deities - in this case represented by stars) were forced apart by father/god, as penance for neglecting their chores due to spending too much time together. Sometime later, feeling sorry for the couple who were desperate to hang out  - the father/god agreed to allow them to meet just once a year, on the 7th day of the 7th month. Yes July is the 7th month to us but according to the Chinese Lunar Calendar February is the first month meaning August is the 7th. All clear now?

The streets are lined with long paper streamers representing the notes written to each other across the milky way (or possibly the tails of a shooting star - that's my personal interpretation anyway)  and long strips of fabric or textiles (the chick star apparently had to do a lot of catch up on her weaving to prove herself worthy of re-meeting her star lover) - or is that from another version of the story? Smaller paper notes with messages of love and hope - or wishes for good handwriting or sewing apparently - are tied onto branches. As are paper stars - and twinkling lights - very pretty.

There's yet another rendition of the fable which involves burying some sandals under bamboo or some such thing - hence the green tubes... but now I'm even confusing myself.  No matter what it's a fun, glittery party! And it is free - all you have to do is go for a walk. 

Take a look here for some info by clearly more informed peeps than I.

In Kyoto there is an especially lovely gathering along the Kamogawa river (as you will see from these photos). Young women in summer kimono ( Yukata ) wander about hoping to meet the man of their dreams  - although I'm not sure exactly how successful they are with all those stars in their eyes....  boom-tish!

And of course there are couples canoodling in corners, swept up in the romance of it all. And possibly casting smug glances at all the single ladies... all the single ladies 

And if it rains on the 7th it is said that you will have no chance of finding your mate so pack up, go home and wait for next year. How festive....

 And if you do happen to snaffle a new love there are plenty of yuka (restaurant decks constructed only for the summer months) for sharing a drink or meal together.  Could be the start of a beautiful thing?

We didn't do the yuka thing on this occasion  -instead we ate nearby on Kiyamachi dori at Toridori - a place we'd walked by a few times and were keen to try. The split leveled restaurant sported an attractive fit out 

but sadly the food wasn't amazing. And more expensive than it should have been. 

Spring onion salad with crisp yuba above was just ok.

Summer oden below  - with overly fishy dashi jelly and tomatoes - did not float my boat. I did however think it was a great idea. Just not well executed. 

 The grilled chicken bums and veg was ok but nothing to write home about.

Gion Matsuri - Kyoto, July 2012

                      

We are currently transferring all Japan-related posts to Jane Lawson's Zenbu Tours site .You'll find this post HERE.