Meeting Madame Michiko

So after 17 years I run into an old friend, on Christmas day,  at a new friend's house in Kyoto. It was a strange but wonderful surprise for both of us, not having had any contact since her stint living in Australia. We quickly reconnected and eager to catch up on the goings on of almost 2 decades we arranged to meet at Aquariel, her gorgeous tea house in Nishijin. 

A qualified naturopath, Michiko now focuses on blending teas and herbal tisanes for both enjoyment and health  - well, that is when she's not performing healing baby massage. While the ground level of this refurbished (and importantly warm) Machiya offers a bouquet of dried herbs and flowers and exotic teas for brewing -plus essential oils and other natural beauty products, the top tier is a quiet and cosy area to take tea and light refreshments and escape the world for a while - or bring your wee one for some professional TLC of course!.       

After chatting and giggling over tea for a couple of hours, where she also produced 'those photos' ( as threatened on the Christmas Day post) we were rudely interrupted by a noise that sounded a little like a cross between a wounded cow and the echoey call of a Canadian Mountie's horn - neither of which was a likely source.   Michiko practically threw me through the Shoji in an effort to get outside. I had absolutely no idea what was going on but she seemed more excited than scared so I just went with it. The "mountain monks" were doing the rounds of the 'hood performing an annual New Year blessing for local homes and businesses. Although Michiko had heard the legend of the shell blowing, pom-pom wearing folk, it was her very first encounter with them and she enthusiastically beckoned them inside.

Ritual performed, Michiko glows with pride and perhaps something a little more mystical. Consequently we were a little late for dinner but what better excuse!!

Michiko was filmed a few days earlier by NHK for the popular 'Venetia's friends' programme which will air on the 6th and 8th of February 2011 for those in Japan. 

If you are visiting Kitano Tenmangu Shrine - exit through the east gate,  walk straight ahead about 20 metres and Aquariel is on your right.

The perfect weather for Nabe

A snowy Kansai day.  

Kamo-nabe (duck hotpot) lunch at Uoserou by Lake Biwa.

Koi (carp) sashimi, grilled Moroko (little seasonal fish) from the lake, Kamo nabe with tsukune (meatballs) made from duck meat, liver, and bone for crunch (?!) and finally Zosui (soup made by adding cooked rice to the remaining broth). A walk in the snow and visit to a local sake brewery. Not bad for a day's work.

Sakuya さくや

Sakuya is a casual Kappo restaurant in Nishijin, Kyoto. Everything below (except the fugu platter) was included in a 3500 yen course. I don't know how they do it.  Unbelievable.

Y.U.M

obanzai of nanohana, chirimen, gobo

grilled sakana mini donburi

Sashimi of Scallop, Uni, maguro belly- sensational

crisp sansho skinned flounder with pickles

tempura of tiny ebi (prawns) and piman

fugu sashimi, jelly and croquette

monkfish nabe

monkfish liver jelly, fugu sushi topped with yuzu paste, ikura (salmon roe with wasabi)

homemade udon with crushed sesame, spring onion and fresh wasabi leaves

Ume ( plum) ice cream 

Au Temps Perdu

Blink and you will miss this gem of a cafe in Okazaki.  I had walked by about a dozen times and never noticed it until someone pointed it out. And oh my god I am so thankful they did - or am I ? It is a little dangerous living so close by.

 It isn't much to look at, a little tired inside but it doesn't matter because the food is that bloody good. Its only open for lunch. You can stop in for one of several very fine teas or a cup of thick hot chocolate (which I hear is to die for - so I will be back there next week with a bucket!) but they don't do coffee.

  

I ordered the plate lunch consisting of smoked salmon, green salad, foie gras mousse, an orgasmic quiche  ( melt in your mouth pastry/ creamy just cooked custardy filling), seriously f-ing good bread, pickles and an iced tea with a madelaine. I took home a small raisin studded baba au rhum, split and filled with creme pattisserie and a wafer thin slice of a luxuriously rich chocolate gateaux - both so good they almost made me cry. They had several other savoury and sweet offerings available for take out and I plan to sample more. I know, I know - I have gone all European but after 5 months out of the last 12 eating only Japanese in the name of research I have come over all French and Italian - well why not if they do it so damn well here??  

If you are visiting the Heian Jingu (shrine) and need a break - walk south down Jingu michi and under the Giant red Torii gate where you will find a set of traffic lights.  Cross to the south /west corner of the crossing then head west along Niomon dori and in about 30 seconds you will see it on your left next to a small canal. If there are no tables and chairs outside -it's shut so keep walking another few minutes and on the next corner on your right is the Hosomi museum - the cafe there is not bad either - and they do a pasta set lunch with bread, salad, starter and tea or coffee for around 1500yen - which is about what you will pay at Au Temps Perdu - but I know where I would rather spend my money given the choice.