Osteria Ogino

If you are looking for an cosy spot for a bowl of pasta in Kyoto's Heian Shrine vicinity head to 'Ogino' on Nijo Dori.  It's only about a 5 minute walk west from the corner of Jingu michi (which is a block south from the shrine's entrance). 

Their Carbonara and Amatriciana, whilst not completely authentic are really delicious, they also do excellent grilled local meats - the pork is sensational. And the chef/owner is a real sweetie with a penchant for dancehall, ska and reggae - particularly The Whaling Whalers -  all on vinyl. There is a small but decent by the glass wine selection. And a couple of desserts. 

Open lunches and dinner but see here for details on opening days and hours.

When I say cosy, I mean real cosy - there is this one area at the front which seats upto 6 then 2 tables for 2 in front of the counter which also seats about 3 people. Still it's bigger than some Japanese restaurants! I'm just saying - go solo, take a friend or go in a very small group. In the evenings it is a nice casual spot for couples. We lived about 10 meters away for 6 months and we were regulars - sure it was convenient but the food was really good and at the right price. 

Clementia クレメンテイア

Clementia and I were getting along famously until I smashed one of her lovely glasses. I'm still not quite sure how it happened. I barely tapped it... (with my i-phone as I tried to get a shot of the wine label - yeah, I would have been pissed off with me too if I was the owner.  He was sweet enough but I could tell he wasn't overly excited by my clumsiness and trashing of his tiny eatery).  

I'd been recommended to this Italian restaurant in the north western corner of Kyoto's downtown area by a friend of a friend about a year or so earlier - apparently it is a local favourite. A 6 course lunch with coffee for $40 is cheap as chips anywhere else in the world but in Kyoto - well it is considered quite an  investment in a town where many decent lunch deals can be found for around for $10-20 dollars - amazing but true. Not 6 courses mind you - but still - a decent feed can be had for not very much without having to look too far. So, there was a certain level of expectation.  

And after one sip of this chilled soup of pure tomato essence with basil oil and Parmesan wafers I was pretty certain it was money well spent.  I had a grin from ear to ear. Sheer pleasure. 

and the wine didn't do any harm either - they told me the name translated as playboy... I told them to leave the bottle! (not really honey... ;+ xx)

White asparagus was in season  - lightly grilled, nama (prosciutto like) ham , paprika sauce, Hollandaise sauce, balsamic... all the sauces.... most pleasant, even if a little too much going on

Next up was the homemade sausage with cabbage puree, leek, cabbage and porcini saute and mustard on the side - simple yet delectable

After the three starter courses a selection of 5 pastas was on offer - I chose the home made taglierini of wholemeal flour (from Shiga), butter sauce, fresh bamboo shoots, mushrooms, warabi stems.  It was truly delightful, toothsome yet elegant. I would return just for the pasta - any of them. Having Carbonara made with eggs from neighbouring Shiga or lasagne of  wild?? beef and pork  or a fresh tomato sauce with new onions on the menu it was pretty hard to make a decision.

Noting how much I was enjoying myself the owner poured me a glass of the wine with the gorgeous label. He told me it was Shindo Funi from Hitomi winery in Shiga, his home town (hence all the Shiga produce!). It had a bouquet of strawberries but the finish was dry and full bodied. Too easy to drink. And I wish I'd managed to get more of it past my lips before desiccating the glass. 

 Next was a selection of 4 mains - including Omi beef cooked in hay, roast duck or baked sea bass.  I chose " The roast of Pork". The dish indeed contained some roast pork - but also home made bacon, a spice mix of almond, paprika, garlic powder and roast barley and a sauce made from Okinawan black sugar.  Hello. It was a curious mix to be honest but enjoyable nonetheless.

Interesting to note that the chef does not use olive oil but a local canola oil in this dish and throughout his cooking. Although... I did note that the homemade foccacia came with olive oil - so I'm guessing it does feature from time to time. Or the explanation was lost in translation... totally possible.

Mille Feuille of vanilla custard with cassis sorbet  - the desserts are made by the chef's wife. Clever thing she is - this was a fab finish!

Italian coffee ? - si, grazie. So not all offerings on the menu were entirely Italian - you expect that in Japan, but the meal was most enjoyable. And for $40 who's ever going to complain?

Amore あもれ

If you are travelling with kids in Kyoto town ( or you live there and are stinging for a decent pizza) check out Amore  - an atmospheric Italian joint on lower Kiyamachi (between shijo and gojo dori on the eastern side of the street) . 

The very tasty pizza and salads are all I can vouch for but whilst I was munching my way through a few cheesey slices I noticed people tucking into tempting looking grilled meats, seafood and pasta  -  and there were certainly some wonderful aromas wafting our way. And they aren't scared of garlic! Yippee. 

The salad was extremely fresh, laced with a cracker of a dressing. 

And although I didn't partake  -the dessert menu looked authentic and I'd happily return to give it the once over!

Their drinks are well priced and my cocktail of yoghurt liqueur and ginger ale went down a treat - yep, you heard right.  Look I was intrigued... I just had to. Pleasantly surprised. So much so I drank another... don't judge me...

There's plenty of space upstairs for groups and out the back too so don't be afraid to enter if it looks full from the front. 

The only downside was an occasional scuttling cockroach but the warmer months will bring such critters.  It might have been a one off of course.

I'd happily return for a casual meal when feeling like a break from Japanese food. As a foreigner I still need to eat cheese occasionally. 

Hinata Restaurant - Kyoto

It was the end of a lazy Sunday afternoon in mid October. 

Good friend, and longterm Kyotoite, Liz and I had made the most, of the last, of the year's warmer evenings by lolling beside the Kamogawa.

In the romantic glow of the lingering afternoon light, we bore witness to much canoodling (holding hands and leaning) at the same time noting the amount of older men hovering on their bikes clearly hoping for a cheap glimpse of something more,  but it was the tiny flying mushi (insects) which finally drove us away. 

We were seeking sustenance, and a glass of wine, somewhere casual - and vegetarian friendly. 

Within minutes of leaving the river we discovered Hinata, in a lane way just off  west off Kiyamachi street, a few streets north of  Sanjo dori, and it fit the bill perfectly. They specialise in Kyo-yasai (revered Kyoto vegetables) and seasonal varieties featured in both vegetarian and meat based dishes. There was certainly enough vego and seafood choices to keep Liz happy (and, well there was wine so we were always going to be OK really...)  and they had some great sounding meaty/piggy/offally bits too - quite the contrast ... I'll have to head back without Liz!!

As soon as we entered the restaurant we noticed there were quite a few foreigners - the place is in the heart of the city and they have an English menu so it is an easy joint for a casual but very decent meal with  reasonable prices. (the lot including wine cost us around $60 AUD).  We ordered drinks and within minutes a small plate of pumpkin terrine and tofu with dashi was set down before us  - for a casual joint this was a lovely surprise. 

Tomato salad filled with tomato mousse above, Bagna cauda with vegetables below:

Arancini above, pumpkin and chicken gratin with a deliciously rich chicken jus. There was also a shellfish dish which I must have been too busy scoffing to photograph.

Everything was flavoursome, fresh, well executed, and pretty simple. There was a distinct Italian theme but also some Japanesey flavours too. Easy fare for the fussy eater or for those who may need a change break from traditional Japanese food. 

Here's a link to a sample menu  - don't forget to use google translate!

http://tabelog.com/kyoto/A2602/A260202/26022025/dtlmenu/

Look out for the logo above on the building sign board at street level ( there are quite a few businesses in this tall, skinny building)  - and please note that the restaurant is on the third floor.  There is a lift. 

If you are coming from Kawaramachi street - this restaurant is the first little street south of the Kyoto Royal Hotel and Spa. 

As it happens  - there are a couple of other cosy looking Italian and Spanish restaurants on this street too including one excellent woodfired pizza joint. - about half way along but possibly just closer to the Kawaramachi end of the street. I love Da Yuki in Higashiyama and have always rated it as the best pizza in Kyoto but this place is right up there. Must head back and try the pasta! Sorry no name but will grab it next time I'm in town...

Lanzafame Trattoria

*update - 2014 - this restaurant is no longer open but you will find John at Mille Vini!

Its a curious thing - you just don't hear enough about John Lanzafame.  I guess sometimes, in this city overcrowded with new eateries, the humble "tratt" can be overlooked in favour of glitzy, uber-designed-spaces showcasing the latest food trends. Which is a shame.  John is a talented, generous and passionate chef,  best-selling cookbook author and good guy with a wicked sense of humour! He also happens to be well respected by his peers  - particularly those who are very highly regarded in culinary circles themselves...

His first book "Pizza Modo Mio" went through the roof  - selling like hotcakes both in Australia and internationally but his skills are far wider reaching than the amazing gourmet pizzas he whips up. Little known fact -  he competes regularly at a very high level in the international culinary olympics.  Yes that is a real thing!!

Burrata, Figs and prosciutto

At Lanzafame Trattoria, John is cooking really moreish, traditional Italian fare (with an occasional contemporary twist) focusing on quality ingredients and FLAVOUR!  From the rustic and hearty to the delicate and refined his food is often the kind you wanna roll around in - and almost too easy to eat.  Expect excellent handmade pasta (he's recently invested in a piece of sexy benchtop machinery to help keep up with the demand) with superb sauces, his world famous pizzas, super-slow-cooked onepots - think beef shortribs cooked for 24 hours, cured meats, imported burrata like that above ( oh my god - sensational) and superb desserts  - try his Tiramisu in a glass (to.die.for).

Freshly made pasta with garlicky scallops, a hint of chilli, parsley and .....caviar - oh my

Grilled to perfection seafood with baby squid cooked in a tomato based sauce

Digestif anyone??

ok , so we were still there when they closed up. But we couldn't let John have an aftework drink on his own could we....? 

Please make sure you say "Hi" from me when you visit - John and his lovely wife Justine are great hosts, you won't be disappointed. 

Fourth Village Providore

As I promised a week or so ago  - a quick post on the Fourth Village Providore in Mosman.  Very close to Coco on Myahgah Mews (behind the traffic lights at the Spit and Military Road intersection).  

I had no idea this place existed - which is a shame as it is brimming with excellent quality fruit n veg, gourmet groceries, deli items and breads - plus a pretty damn impressive cheese room. Better late than never. 

Sadly they shut me down before I could take too many pics...  

What the photos don't show is a cavernous space packed with just about every ingredient you could possibly imagine needing for a gourmet feast. While some locals refer to the place as "the fourth mortgage" -its all about bang for your buck. Quality ingredients are often exxy. 

The cheese room is a delight. I highly recommend the La Tur below left - made from a mixture of cow, goat and sheep milks it was mild and buttery in flavour,  rich and gooey on the outer layers and thick and smooth in the core. Way too easy to eat.  

The pleasant cafe/restaurant attached was packed midweek lunch with well-heeled locals chowing down on a range of Italian favourites. Pizza, pasta, roasted meats, mixed platters of smallgoods and salads. It isn't cheap but, let me reiterate, the produce is very good.  I thoroughly enjoyed my insalata caprese - full flavoured tomatoes, great bocconcini. And although the avocado isn't traditional it made for a slightly more substantial lunch. I could have done without the caramelised balsamic but it is decent product placement for those who haven't tried it. 

A womb and Bosom

In the last week or so I have been fortunate enough to dine at both these exotically named establishments - not 5 minutes from each other.  Only in Japan.  

 A Womb dishes up an interesting mix of traditional and contemporary Japanese  - I have had the pleasure of being cocooned there on two occasions - re birthing experience perhaps?   The design conscious space is very "Kyoto Cool" and situated in the middle of small mountainside suburb in Higashiyama's Ichijoji near Shisendo Temple - making it the perfect spot for lunch after you have zenned out on the verandah contemplating the serene garden -its about an 8 minute walk but you will need a map.  The multi-skilled chef also moonlights as a fashion designer with a room upstairs for checking out some of his threads. They also sell some handsome home wares, a few Cd's and the like. Its a damn fine spot to while away an afternoon - I'd move in if they'd let me. 

Bosom serves Italian fare (think being clutched to mama's breast) and is run by an effusive husband and wife team who are addicted to all things Italian and travel regularly to Italy for inspiration. Its not completely authentic but pretty close by Japanese standards. Excellent value, friendly neighbourhood atmosphere and tasty grub.  Its on a corner on Kita Shirakawa dori, on the western side of the road, between Donq bakery cafe and Michael's international supermarket.  Don't blink - you will miss it and I you wouldn't want that to happen.